Method of and apparatus for producing crinkled silking



June 'l, 1940. L, p. VAN DER ESSEN 2,203,804

METHOD 0F AND APPARATUS FOR PRODUGING CRINKLED SILKING Filed Aug. ll, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet l June 11, L A P VAN DER ESSEN 2,203,804

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR ERODUCINC- CRINKLED SILKING Filed Aug. ll, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 5&2 /A/l/E/V 701? 0a/5 V00 afar 5556/7' TTORNEY June 11, 1940- L. P. VAN DER EssEN 2,203,804

HETHODOF AND APPARATUS FOR PRODUCING CRINKLED SILKING Filed Aug. ll, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet I5 mm1 ff. Illlllllmlllllllll 452 4 7- TOP/Vey June 11 1940- 'L P. VAN DER EssEN 2,203,804

METHOD 0F AND APPARATUS FOR PRODUGING CRINXLED SILKING Filed Aug. ll, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet 4` I/.E/v To@ OU/L5 P Van der .Esse/7 @Aww/M 4 7- TOR/Vey Patented June 1l,` 1940@ j a altas t METHOD or AND APPARATUS Fon rnoDUcy ING GRINKLED srtKING `Louis P. Van der Essen, Gloversville, N. Y. Application August 11, 1936, Serial No; 95,436

s Claims. (alarm-a) In the manufacture of gloves it hasbeen common to ornament the back thereof by producing `silking thereon. Such silking comprises straight ribs or ridges formed `on the. back of the glove and which are stitched on vopposite sides of the l z The ornamental `effect of the silking is greatly enhanced by makingthe same sinuous inform or what is known in the art. as crinkled or corkscrew. Hitherto, such crinkled appearance has a been produced either by hand stitching or by the `use of a cord which is fed to` the work on the side thereof which becomes the `insidev of the glove as the stitchingoperationi is being carried C out, and which servesto retain the ridge in the glove.` In the first method, the leather or other material from which theglove Vor other article is formed is pierced with two rows of openings arranged in staggered relation, and `a single thread isthen.threadedthrough the two seriesof openings and when placed under tension produces a rib inthe material. 'I'his process, however, is

necessarily slow and therefore-expensive. Furf thermore, the silking` is` unsatisfactory for` `the `reason that a strain placedonthe material transversely lof` the general `direction of the ribs,

such asis produced `when the glove `is drawn `onto the hand, tends tostraight'en thethread and remove the rib thereby `destroying .the very aotappearance which it wasrintended to'produce.

In order to overcome the foregoing difficulties `in crinkled silking produced manually, silking` has been produced mechanically by stitching ,the

The ribthowever, was pro- "the machine was provided with mechanismjby i which the bends were produced in the rib which gave `to it the crinkled `or corkscrew effect. Machine-made` silking of this character, however, is unsatisfactory Vfor the reason that the rib in the material is `formed by the cord and is not` as pronounced as `it i is where the rib is formed by the stitching `and for the further reason thatthewhite cord or cord ,having a `color differing from that of the material of whichthe `back of` the` glove is formedis `visible through the openings formed'by `the stitching, thusl pre-` senting an unsightly,g` objectionable appearance.

Furthermore, the rib hasno give inthe direcvtion of the cord and is objectionable for this x reason. Again, the presenceof `the cordlrenders of the` glove which `isiof` course, objectionable.

Furthermore the expenseA of the cord adds to that extent to thecostof the glove, and it is well known that a slight variation in the cost of the glove may control `the commercial use thereof.

In accordance with my invention;` silking `is produced by my method and on a machine Without the use of a cord and which simulates the hand-rn`ade silking, but which is superior thereto for the reason that strains either transverse or longitudinally 'of the ribs do not mar their ap\ pearance. Y ,a

In accordance with myinventiom the rib is pressed intowthe `material `of which thel glove is `made preferably by the use of dies, and preferably simultaneously with` `the formation of the..

ribthe material lsstitched on eachside of the rib, the stitching thereby serving to coni-lne the rib-and prevent the deformation thereofunder the strains incidentto the use of the glove.

Silking of the character above referredto is` `commonly used on the backs of gloves, and I have, therefore, illustrated my invention in connection withthe glove backs. It will, however, be understood that my invention is applicable to `any flexible material where the same effect might a be desirable. Furthermore, while I have `particuinvention is also applicable to other materials 1,

such as silk, cotton cloth or wool.

My invention will best be understood by reference to theaccompanying drawings in which I have illustrated the preferred form of apparatus `for carrying out my invention and the preferred form `of article produced thereby and in which Fig. l is a sectional `elevation through an apparatus embodying my invention; Fig. la is a sectional elevation taken along the plane of theA line Ia/-la of Fig. l;

Fig. 2 is a sectional front elevation of the needle operating mechanism and the associated parts and the oscillating member which cooperates with `the needles and the operating mechanism therefor;

Fig. 3 is afsectionalplan view taken along the line 3-3 in Fig. 2; Fig. 4 is a sideview of Fig. 3; i

Fig..5 is a fragmentary side view, partially in "section, of a portion of the drive shaft, the sleeve` i thereon and the associated parts; i Fig. 6 isa side view of the member which cooperates withthe needles in stitches; i

Fig. 7 is a planview of the element which cothe formation of the operates with the needles in the formation of the stitches;

1 Fig. 8 is a view generally similar to Fig., '1 and illustrating in full and in dotted lines the two different positions of the slotted element through which the needles pass;

Fig. 9 is a side view of the element shown in Fig. 7;

Fig. 10 is a front view at right angles to Fig. 9;

Fig. 11 is a front view showing the presser foot and the associated oscillatable element and I a section of work between the two;

ftheV linen-I1 of Fig. 16,1and

Fig. 12 is a perspective View of the presser foot.

and the supporting bar therefor;

Fig. 13V is a vertical vsection through' the presser plied to the backthereof;

Fig. `16 is a fragmentary plan view of a piece of material illustrating a single line of silking embodying my invention applied thereto;

Fig; 17 is a section `taken along the plane of s Fig. 18 is a view similar to Fig. 16 but showing thev silking somewhat deformed.

l. Like reference characters indicate likesparts 30 throughout the drawings.

s While the method embodying my invention is capable of being 'carried out by hand, it may, with modifications be carried out ron a machine which has been used for makingcorded silking of the character above referred to'. Such a machine is known in the art and I have, therefore, omitted many of those details -of the machine [which are the same as those ofthe known `rnachineand which constitute no partof my invention.

Referring to the drawings, 20 is a table on which the machine is mounted and on which is mounted the usual Vsewing machine head a portionV of which is shown at 2| (Fig. l) The main drive shaft 22 maybe driven from any suitable source of power andhas its bearing in an arm 23 extending laterally from a bracket 24 which may, in turn, be sup-ported from the table of the machine.' On the lower end of the shaft 22 is mounted a bevel gear 25which meshes with a bevel gear 26 secured oni-a shaft 21 through which the hook for the shuttle of the machine is opv bevel gear 26 is preferably surrounded by a spacing sleeve 28 surrounding shaft 21.

VAsecond sleeve 39 surrounds the shaft 21 and to' the respective ends thereof are secured bevel gears 3| and32, the latter forming one of the main gears of a differential gear indicated generally at 33. I'he planetary gear of the said differential gear is indicated at 34 and the other main gear ofthe differential at 35. The planetary gear 34 is secured to the shaft 21 by a set screw (not.shown).` A third sleeve 36 also surrounds the shaft 21 and is provided with a screw normally closingA an opening in the shaft which may be used for oiling purposes.`

The drive shaft21"thus passes throughthe sleeve 3|), differential `and sleeve 36 and drives the planetarygear 34 which normally rotates about the bevel gear 32 which normally remains sta- Y tionar'yas does the sleeve 30 to one end of which thegear 32 is secured.Y 'I'he planetary movement of the gear 34 thus rotates bevel gear 35, sleeve 36 and bevel gear 33. The'bevel gear 38 meshes .oscillatabl'eiwiththe Shaft,V

with a bevel gear 33 which is mounted on a rotatable element (not illustrated) within the head 4Q and on which is mounted the `hook 4| for the shuttle, which hook is thus continuously rotated from the said drive shaft, it being understood that the shuttle is stationary, as is the bobbin which is mounted therein and on which the shuttle thread is wound as is well known.

Referring more particularly to Fig. 2, the needles 4| I are mounted in suitable needle guides (not illustrated) and are reclprocated by mechanism (not illustrated) from the arm shaft of the machine in the manner usual in sewing machines.

. lIn orderto form a rib or ridge'in the'work and 'which is known in the artas silking, a male and a female die are provided between which the work passes. Thermale die which is indicated generally at'43 comprises a plate 43| over which the-work passes and also comprises an attaching plate 432,(preferably integral with the plate 43| `provided with openings 433 by which the member 43 may besecured toa plate 434' (Fig. 2) with which the topof a shaft 44 isprOVided. The

shaft/I4 extends upwardly within the `head 40 and has its' bearingat 44|, the bearing being supported cna bracket 442 attached to the table 20. 'I'he plate432 is preferably engaged on opposite edges fby arms` 45extcnding upwardly from the head 4|] (Fig, 2) vA rib or iinger'46 is mounted (inland is preferably integral with said v'plate 43|`andextendsabove and Aacross a slot or elongated Opening 41 formed therein as best indicated in Figs. 'Tand 10. v

The female die indicated generally at 48,`com

` prises a presser foot'448l yformed with a slot 482 through which the needles pass. 'The presser VVfoot isse'oured to the needlejhead by an arm 483.

i i Inr order to` lmake the rib in thework crinkled or sinuous inform, 'means arev provided for oscillatingthe'plate 43| andthe'rib 46 thereon and also oscillating the needles in synchronism therewith, In the'embodiment of 'my' invention illustrated, amanually operated handle 5| is mounted on an arm 5|| secured to a shaft 512 having its bearing inv a lsleve 5 I3 mounted onvand preferably Vintegral with la bracket 5|4'suitably secured to` yli) the underside oftable 2,0. On the upper end of ftheI shaft 5|,2 is, mounted a. bevel gear 52 meshing with abevel gear 53 which is',l in turn,rnounted on one end of a horizontally'extending shaft 54 havingfits bearingwinthebracket 5|4.y O-n the opposite end of the shaft 54 is mounted a bevel gear 55I meshing witha `bevel gear 56 whichis secured to a shaft 51having its bearings in brack- "etsmvSAl and 59 v'secured tothe under side of the table ,219.. Securedtothev Vrespective ends of Ithe shaft 51 are bevel gears 6|) and 6| meshing, 4respectively, with bevel gearsf 62 and 63 the first of which is secured toa shaft 64 extending upwardly within the head ,2| of the machine and the second 'of vwhich is secured to a' shaft 65 having its bear'- 'ings'in the arms of a yoke shaped bracket 59 securedto the under side of the table 2l). Tolthe 'lower'end of the shaft 65 is secured ag'ear wheel To the upper end of the shaft `64` is secured a bevel gear ifmeshing with a bevel gear 1Il=secured on oneend of a horizontally extending shaft "ll and to the opposite-lend of which is secureda bevel gear 12n1eshing with a bevel gear 13 secured to an oscillatable element indicated gen-` erally at lillandwhich is preferably mounted on` a part ofthe head 2l of the machine `as best i indicated inFig. 2. The lower end of the shaft 64 has its bearing in an arm 23V on bracket 2li and to the lower end of the shaft is secured a bevel gear 3H `meshing with the bevel gear 3 I. Threads 42 are led through the needle head T4 to the respective needles Il! l. 4

The crinkled formation of the rib in the material is indicated at in Figs. 15, 16 and 17. The operation of the device embodying my invention is as follows:

` presser foot to form a rib 119 in the material.`

`The reciprocation of the needles 4H causes them Thework material 50 is placed `between the presser foot 48| and the plate 43| and is then moved `forwardly by the feet mechanism in the manner usual in sewing machines. which is supported on an arm 532 is brought into engagement with the workto hold the same in position. The rib 45 onthe plate 43! presses the material 5i) upwardly into the groove 484 of the to pass downwardly through the slot 482 formed in the presser foot, then through the material 5! `on opposite sides of the rib 46 and `through the Wslot 41 to the space beneath where loops are formed in the respective needle threads as the needles begin to ascend, which loops are caught `by the rotating hook which passes the same aroound the stationary shuttle to form lock for the stitches.

stitcheslon opposite sidesof `the rib 4B in the material.

'I'he rotation of the shaft 21 normally rotates the planetary gear 34 which is secured thereto. The sleeve 30 and the bevel gears 3 i and 32 which are secured thereto is at this `time stationary.`

`"Ihe planetary gear 34, therefore, spins around the bevel gear 32 and rotates gear 35, sleeve 36,` gear 38 4and bevel gear 39 which drives the hook The cork screw or crinkled form is imparted to the rib by oscillating the handle 5I which,I through the described gearing, oscillates the shaft 51. The oscillation of the shaft 51` through the -bevel gear 6l] and associated parts i oscillates the element 1li and the needles and through the bevel gear 6l and the associated `parts including the bevel gear B3, shaft 65 and gearsfGT and 68 oscillated thereby causing the plane of the needles to include the longer axis of the slot 41. The needles thus always pass downwardly on opposite sides of the rib 46 and the plane of the needles is maintained at right anglesy to the rib 4B. The thread forming the stitches oriopposite sides of the rib, is kept under suin-` cient tension by mechanism well known for maintaining` the rib in the material after it has left the dies. When the shaft 51 is oscillated due to the oscillation of the handle 5|, the gear 60 which ismounted on said shaft oscillates the shaft 54, l the gear 3H which is mounted on the lower end description and y"not of The foot 50| l transverse strains to which the gloves or otherl article to which the silking is applied are subjected does not destroy the ribs as has been the `case with hand stitched gloves.

Furthermore, there is a certain amount of give longitudinally `of the ribs in the material which is not present in gloves formed with corded ribs.

Hence, while I have described my invention in its preferred embodiments, it is to beunderstood that the wordsf'which I have used are words of limitation. Hence, changes within the purview of the appended `claims may be made without` departing from the truescope and `spirit ofmy inventionin its broader aspects.

What I claim is 1. In a device forl forming and maintaining a crinkled rib in flexible material, cooperating male and female dies disposed on opposite sides of said material `for forming a rib therein, means for stitching the material onopposite sides of said rib, and means for oscillating said dies during the formation of the rib.

2. In a device for forming and maintaining a crinkled rib in flexible material, cooperating male and female dies disposed on` opposite sides of said material for forming a rib therein, means for stitching the material` on opposite sides of said rib and with separate threads, and means for oscillating said dies during the formation of the 3. In a device for forming and maintaining a crinkled rib in flexible material, cooperating male and female dies disposedon opposite sides of said material for` forming a rib therein, means for stitching the material on opposite sides of said rib, means for oscillating said dies during the. formation of the rib, and means for maintaining sufficient tension in the thread forming the stitches to maintain the said ribs after leaving the dies.

4. In a device for forming and maintaining a `crinkled rib in flexible material, an element proi crinkled rib in flexible material, an element provided with a slot and with a rib extending above and across said slot and forming a male die, a presser foot provided on its lower side with a groove registering with said rib and forming a female die, means for feeding flexible material between said dies, and means for oscillating said dies during the formation of said rib. i

`In a device for forming and maintaining a crinkled rib in flexible material comprising cooperating male and female dies between which the said material passes, two reciprocating needles carrying respective threads through the material on opposite sides of said rib and forming loops therein beneath the material, a single movable hook associated with a single shuttle beneath said material and cooperating with the loops formed in the needle threads to form two series of lock stitches on opposite sides of said rib, and Vmeans for oscillating said dies and said needles during the` formation of the rib.

7. In a device for forming and `maintainingja crinkled rib in exible material, cooperating male and female dies disposed on opposite sides of said material for forming a rib therein, means for oscillating said dies duringthe formation of-said rib, means for stitching said material on opposite sides of said rib comprising `twoneedles for carrying separate threads through said material on opposite sides of said rib, a rotating element for interlocking a single shuttle thread -with said needle threads to form lock stitches, and lmeans for correcting the movement of said rotating element to maintain the same .in step with said Voscillating means. 4

8. A method of sewing which consists in forming stitches by means of .a pair of needles which work and the needles so that the stitches are formed in a non-rectilinear path, producing a bight in the work during thestitching operation,

and forming the stitches at opposite sides of the peak of said bight so as to produce an npstanding rib in the work between the stitches.

kLOUIS P. VAN DER ESSEN. 

